Some time ago we published the story of a hunter who had taken the North American Squirrel Slam in a single season. I thought it was one of the best stories we’ve published, but many readers couldn’t see past the fact that the hunter used a shotgun.* Comments ranged from condescension to outrage.
I can understand someone preferring to shoot squirrels with a rifle, I’ve shot them with .22, airguns and muzzleloaders, but I don’t get the hate for shotguns.
If I went squirrel hunting tomorrow (which isn’t a bad idea), I might take my 10/22 but I’d be just as likely to pack a shotgun, especially since the season is young and there are lots of leaves on the trees. . I would unscrew the turkey choke from my 20 caliber 870, put in a Modified and fire 5 or 6 shot field loads. I could even leave the red dot on it.
On the one hand, I like the safety aspect of shooting squirrels with shotguns. It was drilled into my head from a young age that .22 LR bullets can travel 1 1-1/2 miles and you’re not supposed to shoot them in the air. For that reason, most of the squirrels I’ve shot with rifles have been into a wide tree trunk or on the ground. It never felt quite right ripping them out of the branches with a bullet that could go on and maybe hit a drunk guy in the head.
I also don’t recall ripping apart a squirrel with a shotgun. If they are close, you avoid the mark and hit the squirrel in the head with the pattern stripe. Most of the squirrels I’ve skinned only had a few pellets and you lose very little if any meat if you pick your shots. I also don’t remember any squirrel I’ve hit with a shotgun doing anything other than falling dead to the ground.
And while I don’t really like .410s as wing-shooting guns, they make great squirrel guns for those with the skill and patience to stalk up close. (There, I said it, hunting squirrels with a shotgun requires patience and dexterity.)
*_Although he said in the story that he used a shotgun on the advice of his taxidermist, as he wanted to mount all eight squirrels in the heist._
shadow is a dead gift. It is nothing more than a dark lump, moving along the shadow of a great red oak that covers the ground like a fallen log. I can not help smiling. This time of year, you rarely see a whole squirrel, and I’ve learned to look for little pieces that point to the whole: a tuft of tail in the crotch of a tree, a bump on a log. And I couldn’t count the number of squirrels I’ve shot down when their moving shadows caught my eye. It can happen anytime in the squirrel forest, but it happens most often on a day like this, in late winter, when the trees are bare and the woods are wide open and the long shadows of the trees cast the I usually.
The shadow fades, the squirrel must have moved to the other side of the tree, and now a bright orange stripe catches my eye. My 12-year-old son, Jack, is also on the go. This is the first year I’ve let him hunt outside of my immediate reach. He is no longer shoulder to shoulder with me at the base of a large oak tree, he is making his first solo forays into the woods. I remember mine well: a 100-acre forest was a magical world, and a .22 rifle in hand charged every step, every moment, with promise. I suspect that Jack feels all this too, although it may take him 30 years to realize it.
The little things I don’t think there is a better way to end a hunting season than to spend a few mornings hunting late winter squirrels. Some of us never lose our taste for chasing tree rats through hardwood trees, but I guess a lot of us close that chapter as we go, and climb, we tell ourselves, towards deer, ducks, moose or any other game. It seems to suit our adult tastes. That’s too bad. The occasional squirrel hunt is like riding a bike with no hands or making out with your wife in public. If you think those days are over, all the more reason to frown.
And squirrel hunts in late winter bring gifts we might have missed as kids. Devoid of leaves, the forest was bare and open. You can see the crumbling brick chimneys of old farmhouses, the swaying of the earth, every branch and twig, a rabbit’s bramble hole, the deer’s bed still warm to the touch. You can also see the past if you look in the right places.
As I sit in silence, a highlight reel plays in my mind, flashing scenes of the season’s best that are now drawing to a close. From here I can see the open bar of Black Creek, its banks full of cypress tusks. I shot a 9-point whitetail there earlier in the year, the latest in a heart-stopping trio of males that crawled along the creek almost nose to tail, like cows headed for milking. The seepage under my feet reaches Meadow Branch, which empties into the creek a couple of stone’s throws to the northwest. Jack and I were there before on ducks, then sniffed at a row of Canadas that lined the treetops. Forgettable shots, yes, but what I won’t forget was how Jack nearly fell out of his bucket and fell into the creek with a huge yawn at dawn leaning back. I can see the clearing where the beagles ran rabbits. The greenbrier thicket where I killed the first meat doe of the season. All this from my winter perch. All things revealed.
But I can barely see Jack now. He moves in and out of view, a flicker of orange and tan that appears, then disappears, then reappears, like the windows of a passing train. He is dating. I start to whistle at him, then hold my breath. He knows these woods. It’s time for him to stretch his wings too. It’s his last hunt of the season. Soon it will be time to put away the rifle and get out the fly rods. Within a month there might be tarpon in the river and ancient daffodils towering around crumbling brick chimneys.
The shadow sprouts fine gray fur and a tail, and now weaves its way along a fallen log, just as I’d hoped. I follow the animal through the telescopic sight, and when it stops, the sight collides with my racing pulse. I breathe, then let out half a breath. It’s funny, but when a squirrel heads my way, it never feels like a minor game.
Choosing the right hunting boot is one of the most important decisions a hunter can make regarding equipment. We’ve said many times in the past that what we see most frequently ruining or even ending hunts is foot problems. A good hunting boot should provide ample support and traction, keep your feet warm and dry, and withstand rough terrain and the elements, all while fitting well and staying comfortable for days on end. When boots don’t do these things, they inevitably become a liability. Problems like painful blisters and hot spots, cold and clammy feet, or even sprained ankles can turn a fun hunt into a miserable death march.
The best hunting boots are based on the best hiking and mountaineering platforms and should last the hunter at least several years with proper care. And as long as they fit well, good boots eliminate the most serious complications hunters often encounter when wearing the wrong shoes. But how you choose the ideal hunting boot largely depends on where, when and how you hunt. Among other things, you’ll need to consider the terrain, average temperatures, and the level of support you may need.
In certain cases, the environment or climate may require special footwear. For example, a hunter pursuing wild boar in a swampy environment might need knee-high neoprene or rubber boots. But the vast majority of big game and small game hunting can be done with just one or two pairs of high-quality, tough leather hunting boots like those made by Schnee’s. Each model is handcrafted and equipped with Schnee’s signature features. Its Easy Roller lacing system ensures a personalized fit. Upper leather and a full wrap-around rubber band provide years of durability. OutDry waterproof membrane keeps feet dry in snowy or rainy conditions. Dual-density midsoles cushion feet against constant bumps, and durable Vibram rubber outsoles are designed for maximum traction. We’ve used Schnee’s everywhere, from the farm field of Wisconsin to the highlands of Alaska, and they have never failed us.
Timberline is the newest model of hunting boots from Schnee, but we have been using them for several months. Steve and Janis tried them out in the rugged desert mountains of Mexico on a Coues deer hunt last winter and loved them. I wore them all spring while chasing Merriam’s wolverines through the Colorado mountains. I’ve already done many miles in my Timberlines on rough terrain and from a durability standpoint they still look and feel like new. But the most remarkable thing about the Timberlines is how light they are. At a pound lighter per pair than the average hunting boot, it feels like you’re walking around in an ultralight pair of trail running shoes. And they have quite a bit of flexibility, which is nice on long, active hikes like the ones you might take while stalking antelope or hunting pheasants. But despite their light weight and lower degree of stiffness, Timberlines have plenty of stability and traction on steep terrain. I wouldn’t hesitate to use them on a backcountry archery moose hunt. The boots aren’t insulated, so they’re great for warmer environments or early-season hunts, but with a thick pair of merino wool socks, they’ll work just fine later in the fall. The Timberline is a great all-around option for hunters who prefer a softer, lighter boot and like to cover a lot of ground.
For years, wherever we have hunted, Beartooths have been the workhorse for the entire MeatEater team. This year, Schnee’s refreshed its Beartooth model, and the Beartooth II is an even better all-around option for hunters looking for a boot that can handle a wide variety of climates and topographies. A new upgraded chassis and midsole add even more support and cushioning and also extend the life of the boot. The Beartooth II is slightly stiffer than the Timberline, making it a good choice for mountain hunting. But they’re not so stiff that long walks on flat ground become painful. The Beartooth II is available in a non-insulated model and an insulated version. Most of the MeatEater crew prefer the non-insulated version, even on later hunts in the fall, but the added warmth of the insulated style is nice when sitting long on a glass point or hunting in cold conditions. Whether you’re looking to invest in your first pair of high-quality all-purpose hunting boots or have finally worn out your original pair of Beartooth, you can’t go wrong with the Beartooth II.
The Granite, Schnee’s rugged mountain hunting boot, also received an overhaul this year; The new Granite II features an upgraded dual-density midsole and rearfoot stability system, along with a custom Vibram Tsavo rubber outsole that maintains its grip on loose ground or bare rock. The Granite II could be considered a “sheep hunting boot” meaning it is rigid and designed to offer maximum support, stability and traction on the steepest of mountain terrain. And, equipped with 200 grams of Primaloft insulation, they’re great for mid- to late-season hunts. I include the Granite II here because some hunters spend most of their time in mountainous environments where these features are essential, and also because the Granite II is my favorite hunting boot. I have some old running injuries that sometimes cause my ankles to bend and roll without me realizing it, especially when going downhill. The resulting unplanned excavations can be painful and even dangerous in some situations. For this reason, I prefer a stiff and stable boot. And for a hiking boot, they are also very comfortable. I can walk on the Granite II all day without feeling like I’m wearing a pair of alpine ski boots. I’ve never drawn a sheep tag, but I use the Granite II while hunting Sooty Grouse, Mule Deer, and Elk in the Colorado mountains. And if I ever get to hunt sheep, I’ll wear these boots. If you’re looking for a bombproof mountain hunting boot, check out Schnee’s Granite II.
Honorable Mention: Hunter II Pac Snow Boots
Schnee started making pac boots in Bozeman, Montana thirty years ago. They still make them there today. A pac boot may not seem like an obvious choice for an all-purpose hunting boot at first, but for hunters in some parts of the country, these boots are almost a necessity. With a resistant vulcanized rubber bottom, they are impervious to water. Removable quilted Thinsulate fleece liner is rated down to -20 degrees. So if you hunt in cold, wet environments, the Hunter II Pac Boot will keep your feet warm and dry. These were Steve’s favorite winter hunting boots in Michigan and are great for late season hunting of everything from Grouse to Whitetail Grouse. But Schnee originally designed these boots for elk hunting and you’ll still see plenty of serious elk hunters wearing them later in the season. Although heavy, the Air Bob sole provides good traction and the sturdy leather upper and lacing system provide good support going up and down hills. The Hunter II is available in 7-inch, 10-inch, 13-inch and 16-inch heights so you can choose the one that best fits your needs. I have the 13-inch version which is great for hunting in deep snow. And, if after many years of use, you manage to knock these boots down enough that they need to be rebuilt, Schnee’s has you covered.
You’ll notice that we prefer a higher boot height of at least 9-10 inches over ankle-high boots; There are a couple of reasons for this. First of all, if you’re going to be hiking, you’ll appreciate the added support and stability of a taller boot. Next, the added height keeps out water, snow, dirt, and debris. I know some hunters who still prefer lower, ankle-high hiking boots because they are lighter and faster. These boots work well on temperate terrain or for hitting the trail. But inevitably, those hunters get their feet wet during stream crossings or when a blizzard arrives unannounced. In weedy areas, they constantly stop to remove burrs from their socks. And on rough terrain, they can’t navigate steep slopes as safely or easily as they would with taller boots. When in doubt, choose a higher boot height.
Many hunters start out chasing squirrels, only to be lured away by larger, more glamorous game. However, as the leaves begin to change and the temperature drops, the squirrels seem to appear in the branches and crotches of every tree, reminding us how much we enjoyed hunting them.
1. The restless hand Squirrels have a natural inclination to stay still when predators approach. If you find yourself sitting in an area that should be productive, i.e. under an oak tree, drop your hand into the trash and ruffle the leaves at random intervals, repeating in a discontinuous pattern. The sound of your hand moving on the leaves mimics the sound of a squirrel that has begun to feed, encouraging all other squirrels in the area to follow suit.
2. Stream up You’ll often find plentiful, unpressurized squirrels along streams and creeks bordered by hardwoods, particularly oak, hickory, sycamore, and ash. If you minimize movement in your canoe or kayak and keep your eyes open, you can quickly shoot squirrels that aren’t expecting danger from the water. If you’re with a partner, order only one of you to shoot at a time, and only from a sitting position.
3. Point and stem Squirrels are most active during the day, and a morning or evening stalk through the woods can be very productive. The first step is to scout out the areas where the squirrels are likely to be found, which is anywhere the mast crops they eat, primarily acorns, beeches, and nuts, are present. With the sun at your back, practice walking very slowly, taking two or three steps at a time. Keep your eyes peeled and get ready to take down the squirrels that didn’t hear you approach.
4. The right dog Allen Franklin Mountain Cur Squirrel Dogs hunt by sight and smell, tracking squirrels and then probing the site with a series of short barks until the hunter arrives. Squirrels instinctively head to the side of the tree opposite a predator, and a circling dog encourages the squirrel to move around the trunk and branches, offering the hunter an opportunity. In addition, the dogs catch injured squirrels that fall from the tree, preventing the animals from getting lost or hurt.
Know your tree squirrels
fox squirrel Shutterstock
fox squirrels The largest of all tree squirrels, fox squirrels have predominantly gray fur with rusty-orange bellies and tails. Unlike gray squirrels, which prefer wooded habitats, fox squirrels most often live in smaller forests mixed with open areas. Fox squirrels are found from Pennsylvania to the Great Plains states.
gray squirrel Alamy
gray squirrels The most common member of the family, the eastern gray squirrel, is found from New England to the Great Plains, and the closely related western gray squirrel is native to the Pacific coast. Eastern Greys, which can actually be black, white, brown, or gray, are medium-sized tree squirrels found in woodland and urban habitats.
abert’s squirrel Alamy
abert’s squirrels Easily identifiable by their long grayish-black ear tufts, Abert’s squirrels are closely associated with ponderosa pine forests in the western and southwestern United States. This species is unique among tree squirrels in that they do not store food. Instead, they eat different parts of pine trees, including needles, bark, and cones, depending on the season.
pine squirrel Alamy
pine squirrels This group includes Red, Pine, and Mearns squirrels, which are found in the western part of the US. The smallest of the tree squirrels, their diet consists of pinecones and seeds that are normally stored under the tree in the burrow. They are among the most vocal of all members of the Scuiridae (or squirrel) family, so once your cover is blown, all your neighbors will know.
The perfect bushy tail arsenal
the shotgun
Ithaca model 37 shotgun
Ithaca Model 37: Ithacas have been made in the US since the 1880s, but the current line of .28 calibers are perhaps the company’s best pump-action pistols. ($999 and up; ithacagun.com)
the gun
Browning Buck Mark Contour 5.5 URX .22 LR
Browning Buck Mark Contour 5.5 URX .22 LR: Accurate and reliable, this self-loading .22 is a well-balanced shooting pistol that comes with iron sights and an optic rail. ($540; browning.com)
The rifle
Ruger 10/22 rifle
Ruger 10/22: The 10/22 has earned a reputation for dependability, accuracy, and dependability. It’s available in a variety of flavors, including a new synthetic takedown model. ($279-$529; ruger.com)
the air rifle
Crosman Squirrel Sweeper
Crosman Squirrel Sweeper: This air rifle shoots .22-caliber pellets at 1,100 fps, powerful enough for squirrels. At 8.8 pounds, it’s heavy but accurate. ($285; www.crosman.com)
A good mountain dog kit should have a little bit of everything: basic medical supplies, extra parts, tools, extra shells, extra gloves, and anything else vital you might need on a bird hunt.
This preparation could save you hundreds of unnecessary dollars at a vet or save your hunting trip when the unexpected happens. Even if a hunt completion event occurs, there are things that can be done to make an injured hunting dog more comfortable or assist in efforts to leave.
The first thing you need to acquire is a pack to store in the truck. The segmented compartments are ideal for a mountain hunting dog kit. A typical gym bag with a single compartment will turn into an instant mess. Mesh organizational packing bins are great for optimizing space and ensuring you stay organized if your backpack doesn’t have numerous zippered compartments.
There are tons of medical kits and other pre-arranged options, but I have yet to find one that covers all the necessities. I’m picky
I took a combat lifeguard course in the military and currently hold an EMT-B and IV certification. I’m a geek on the medical side. If something happens, I like to be the one with the solution. You need to look at the type of dog, the equipment being used, the terrain you will be hunting in, and the conditions in which the hunts will occur to create your own custom kit. Know the factors and elements that your dog will face and you will most likely have the solution if something comes up. Barbed wire, loose shale with sharp edges, cacti and burrs are waiting in the fields.
Gundog Belle gets some TLC after an encounter with barbed wire
The medkit is an important place to start the build. A generalized selection typically includes gauze, isopropyl alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, EMT gel, tweezers, extended forceps, compression wrap, superglue, duct tape, and buffered aspirin. Other potentially important pieces include a thermometer, Heal Pad, irrigation syringe, microfiber towels, ice packs, Quikclot, hand and foot warmers, scissors, and a staple gun. A close look at the items in the field should tell you what is really necessary.
A small kit of tools and equipment is also a welcome addition to any mountain dog kit. A Leatherman or Gerber multitool should have a home in the pack. Many hunting dog owners, like me, use electronic collars with GPS capabilities. Batteries die, GPS collar antennas bite, and guns jam. Learn about the tools you’ll need to take apart and put your computer back together.
I also like to carry a selection of shells in my kit. A 3-inch cartridge with a #4 shot has no place in my shotgun when I’m headed for strong quail habitat, just as a 2 3/4-inch cartridge with 7 1/2 shots is no use to a North Dakota rooster South trip. I like to have a few selections on hand. It’s easy to switch between different fields or hunts and you’ll have the right shell for the job.
I spend most of my time thinking about the puppies, but it’s also good to pack a few things for yourself. My preference is to have a small bottle of ibuprofen for CRP marches which gives me memories of basic training. It is also a question of when, not if, a blister will form. A moleskin pack or KT Tape Blister treatment patch are great options for keeping yourself stocked up. Single service power packs will always have a home in my kit too. They’re great for those post-lunch hikes or when you’re running low on fuel.
No kit is perfect, trust that. Hunting dogs will always find a way to surprise you with what they get into. However, a little effort with collecting a variety of these essentials will go a long way. Have fun, stay safe and shoot straight.
Just because winter is over and turkey season takes center stage for spring doesn’t mean small game hunters are done for the year. At least nine states offer spring squirrel hunting seasons in May and June, presenting hunters with solid opportunities to get deep into the woods before summer reaches its peak.
Stations exist in Arkansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Missouri, Oklahoma, Tennessee, East Texas, Virginia, and Kansas. Some are long, like in Arkansas, where it runs from mid-May to late February. Others are short, like in Virginia where it’s just a couple of weeks in June.
avoid the heat It hunts about three hours after sunrise and a couple of hours before sunset. The squirrels may be out in the middle of the day, but if the temperatures are rising, it won’t be comfortable for you. If you hunt with dogs, be sure to find water or bring them a jug. And if you find yourself in the woods in the afternoon, look for squirrels in the dense foliage and on the shady sides of older trees.
look high and low Squirrels will dig through the leaf litter for nuts that were missed last fall, so don’t go through areas with tall trees: oak, beech, hickory. Fallen leaves from last fall are still dry and crisp, so keep your ears open for the sound of squirrels crawling in the trash. But the squirrels will be high up in the trees, feeding on young shoots. Look on the highest and most agile branches.
point and stem A good squirrel dog is a lot of fun, and an extra set of eyes never hurts. But if you don’t have feist or cur, become a squirrel ninja. Be stealthy and patient. Listen for squirrels barking or chattering, and watch for jumps and chases. If a squirrel is watching, stand still. Move when it moves and take the good shot when it shows up. Camouflage with green foliage patterns.
take the right weapon My rule of thumb is a 12 gauge shotgun in leafy cover and a .22 scoped rifle when the trees are bare. Shotguns cut leaves; the .22 presents more of a challenge, along with the possibility of a longer shot. Plan accordingly, depending on spring leaf cover. I also always carry an 8×42 binocular to scan the treetops and find a squirrel flattened in the V of a branch.
Dog owners and trainers fall into two camps regarding the use of electronic shock collars for hunting dog training. The first group largely uses electronic collars to complete a dog’s training and send a reminder when obedience begins to fail. Many other trainers and hunters view electronic collars as unnecessary and even cruel, a canine equivalent of waterboarding.
E-collars can be overkill for everyday domestic dogs, where obedience standards are low and safety concerns few. Hunting dogs have it different. Good obedience is mandatory in potentially dangerous situations, such as hunting waterfowl around ice or washing pheasants under shotgun fire.
The crux of the debate is really how e-collars are used on an individual level, and in that case, many amateur trainers could be wrong. Brian Lasley, director of marketing for e-collar manufacturer DT Systems, reminds opponents of e-collars that electronics do more than just send shocks.
“E-collars are valuable training tools,” Lasley said. “But they are No a magic wand where you can wave it and the dog will know exactly what you want it to do. All dogs must be properly trained and introduced to electronic collars before they can be used properly. And you need to understand that often the electronic collar is used simply to get the dog’s attention so that he can give a command.
“There are times, like while hunting pheasants in the cattail on a windy day, where the dog can’t hear you very well. With the vibration function of a collar, I can get his attention and let him know to check back, or I can stop him if he is getting too close to danger.”
While past generations may have used shock collars to force a dog to act out of fear of punishment, today’s offerings come with features designed to simply get the dog’s attention and help keep them safe. Trainers focus on two uses: conditioning, which teaches the dog to turn off low-level electricity when performing the desired task, and corrective shock.
When it comes to busy highways, barbed-wire fences, porcupine encounters, and a host of other potential dangers, it can be helpful to be able to immediately get your dog’s attention at any distance and be reminded. This also applies to duck dogs. A retriever who wants to follow an injured diver into big water and big waves could find himself in a scary situation trying to do what he is supposed to do. If he can’t hear you because of the wind, a slight shake might help him turn around.
Mike Botts, professional dog trainer and owner of Ringneck Kennels, echoed Lasley’s thoughts: “The ability to communicate with a bird dog effectively, efficiently and immediately when off-leash at 40 or 400 yards is very important.” . But amateur trainers should remember that an electronic collar is a tool, just like treats, whistles or leashes. He needs to learn how to use it responsibly, and if he is new to this tool, consider working with a professional first so he understands how to use it effectively.”
Both Lasley and Botts make strong arguments for responsible e-collar use, but not all trainers rely on them. Jeremy Moore, owner of Dog Bone and one of the best shedding and recovery dog trainers in the country, prefers to develop his dogs a different way. He thinks electronic collars have become an unnecessary norm.
“The huge impact that e-collar companies have had on our American training culture is due to the equally huge marketing budgets that we’ve been exposed to,” Moore said. “This has had a huge influence on generations of trainers to the point where some don’t know there are other ways to train a dog. In fact, I’ve asked coaches why they use one and a common response is, ‘because we’ve always done it that way.’ I never thought that was good enough.
“In my opinion, a lack of patience in developing a puppy is the biggest struggle we face today when it comes to raising a good dog. E-collars are marketed as ‘problem solvers’, but what they don’t take into account is the ‘problem creation’ that comes from confusing dogs during training sessions through pressure and unfair timing.”
Moore says that having an electronic collar will not make you a good trainer or erase bad habits that you and your dog have already formed. Troubleshooting is often the genesis of e-collar purchases, which is a mistake, he said.
Many professional trainers will tell you that electronic collars should only be reserved for dogs that know all of your commands. Once the dog is aware of what he did wrong to cause a shock, then you can properly communicate with him. However, according to Moore, this argument rests on shaky ground.
“I’ve heard many describe e-collars as a tool to reinforce previously trained skills, but I’ve always thought if that were true, is there really a need for an e-collar?” Moore said. “Personally, I think the number of coaches who use them inappropriately is much higher than those who use them correctly. That scares me, because it’s unfair to the dogs and to amateur handlers who don’t know any better.
“GRAMBig bird dogs were developed long before electronic collars became popular, and while I’m not against technology in our lives, I think it’s important to remember that dogs haven’t changed much, although technology has. We may be striving for immediate results more than ever, but developing a bird dog is something that still takes time and patience.”
There is a gulf between the pro and anti-neck crowds, and it’s not likely to be bridged anytime soon. If you’re new to training and sorting through your thoughts about e-collars, it’s important to consider your motivations. Is safety high on your list or are you looking to force a dog into a certain type of behavior? Are you buying an e-collar out of frustration, or do you see it as a small asset in a dog’s education?
Be honest and choose wisely. You owe it to your best friend.
Even when it’s cold, the squirrels will be on the move, and not just on the ground. Steve Hendricks/Alamy
When winter comes, all thoughts turn to whitetails. Or maybe rooster pheasants, Canada geese or breaking mallards. And that’s a shame, because some of the best squirrel hunts of the season occur after temperatures drop and snow covers the hardwoods. But it’s not the same game you played in September and October: the snow squirrels are tricky. Here’s how to tackle more bushy tails in the white matter.
1. Hunt with the sun Freezing temperatures can send squirrels into a state of semi-hibernation. But they still have to eat, and on the first sunny day after a stretch of snow and clouds, they’ll be on the move. Focus on well-lit parts of the wood: edges, openings, and the sides of two-way or logging roads. And go ahead, sleep in: your best chance to see squirrels sunning themselves on tree branches is from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
2. Watch out for nuts Black walnut trees don’t drop their entire mast until well into the winter months, and you might have success targeting the treetops by mid-morning. If the squirrels aren’t feeding or warming themselves in the branches, they are most likely low, looking for fallen nuts. Look for a large number of tracks to determine where the squirrels have been feeding most often.
3. Walk the Corn In farmland regions, an area where wood meets harvested corn can be a hot ticket. Equipped with a tremendous sense of smell, squirrels will target waste grains here, even if finding a meal means digging through a foot of snow for a partial ear of corn. But watch out for the exceptional sight of the bugs. Wear snow camo if you don’t have cover and carry lightweight binoculars to spot bushy tails from a distance.
4. Scope with a Rimfire Leafless conditions make longer shots possible. A .22 rimfire firing pin that will put everything inside a 50-cent piece at 50 to 75 yards, plus the ability to shoot that well, will put more bushy tails in the bag. But be careful when shooting a .22 at ground targets, as slow-moving bullets can ricochet off frozen ground. For more of a challenge, try a .32 caliber muzzleloader.
Hunting whitetails in the backyard is so much fun, and going to family deer camp is great. But my absolute favorite place to return to after a long day of hunting public lands is a DIY truck camp. The combination of sleeping quarters, gear storage, and hauling capacity make this the best lodging for public land hunters.
The benefits of truck camping With the right equipment and organization, your truck can become a comfortable yet versatile base camp from which to hunt. By camping out of your truck, you can venture out and stay almost anywhere. There is never an exit too narrow or a road too rough, as can happen with a trailer. Even better, you can park directly on the public lands you want to hunt, and sometimes even position yourself to watch potential hunting spots from camp.
By sleeping in the back of your truck, you also get the benefit of being able to leave home without a bulky tent and eliminate additional setup and teardown time. This is especially valuable on rainy or snowy days. Best of all, if things don’t work out at your first stop, you can throw a few items in your vehicle and quickly relocate.
This is my take on the perfect truck camping setup for backcountry hunters. Adjust according to your circumstances and preferences.
Ideal truck configuration In my opinion, the best choice for a truck camping rig is a full-size 4WD pickup with a rear topper. Obviously smaller trucks work too, but I like the extra storage space in a big truck. An SUV or pickup truck may suffice for a similar style of camping setup, but I think the pickup truck works for a more varied set of uses.
For example, when I have a deer on the ground, I feel much more comfortable dumping a bloody carcass on the bed of my truck than on the carpeted floor inside a vehicle. A full-size bed is preferable, providing enough length for most people to sleep comfortably without their feet hitting the back door. A short bed can also work, it may just require sleeping at an angle.
When it comes to a truck cap, I’ve used both Leer and ARE, but regardless of brand, a couple of features seem to be the most important. Ventilation is key to sleeping comfortably, so I would recommend a cap with drop down or slider windows, mosquito netting, or windows that open fully. I also like the carpeted interior, which seems to insulate the lid a bit better during the cooler times of the year and absorb condensation in the warmer months.
I would also recommend attaching a roof rack to the cap. These allow you to mount various storage boxes or gear racks on your truck. I have personally used Yakima Skyline Towers and round and square bars. For extended trips, I almost always use a roof box like the Yakima Skybox 16, which holds gear like camp chairs, backpacks, archery targets, and various other large gear. Bike and canoe racks can also be mounted on a rack like this, important tools for accessing certain areas.
Finally, I highly suggest using some sort of built-in storage drawer. You can build your own or install something like a DECKED system, which is what I use. By having two sturdy truck bed-length pull-out drawers, I can keep all my camping and hunting gear neatly organized and easily accessible at all times, while keeping the truck bed clear for sleeping and living. I can usually fit all my hunting gear and clothing in one drawer and all my camping, sleeping, and cooking accessories in the other.
truck camping equipment Turning your truck into a comfortable campground starts with your sleeping arrangements. I like to use a high-quality inflatable mat for a mattress, such as Thermarest NeoAir XLite. These are surprisingly convenient and can stay neat and ready in your truck bed, but can also be quickly shrunk down to the size of a Nalgene water bottle when you need more storage space. A comfortable and properly insulated sleeping bag is also a must. Finally, you need to decide whether you want to bring a regular pillow or an inflatable camping variety. I usually have enough room to bring the real deal and I can attest that it’s a simple convenience that makes a real difference.
My recommended camp kitchen consists of a large cooler like a Yeti Tundra 75, a portable grill like the Coleman 2-Burner Grill-Stove combination, a folding camp chair, and a portable camp table like the REI Camp Roll Table. A small LED flashlight like the ones from Black Diamond can also be a nice addition.
If inclement weather is expected, consider bringing a tarp, two adjustable poles, and paracord to create an awning on the back of your truck. With this setup, you can grill out the tailgate, sit in your camp chair, or change while standing and stay dry in rainy or snowy conditions.
Truck Camp Hygiene Whitetail hunters often ask me how I manage showers and stay odor free on trips like this. My solution is to keep it simple. I just pour a pitcher of water over my head every few days and quickly work up a lather with soap in key areas. On days off, I clean myself with scent-free wipes and keep my clothes airing in the branches when I’m not hunting. The portable gravity showers on the market could be an interesting option for those looking for a slightly more traditional cleaning experience.
In all honesty, none of these solutions is perfect. Playing with the wind and thermals is more important than ever when living off the grid like this, as any elk or mule deer hunter can tell you.
choose your own adventure This may not be the exact setup you want, but here’s what has worked for me over the past decade of camping, fishing, and hunting in our nation’s wild public places. Use this as a starting point, customize your truck’s camping setup as you see fit, and choose your own adventure. The road is calling.
